Dim sum started in Canton and has long been served all over China. It’s a spinoff from the older Cantonese tradition of yum cha, a “tea-tasting” rest stop for weary travelers on the Silk Road.

A little dim sum taste of next week’s Cafe review: One non-dim sum starter you should strongly consider is a real Taiwanese treat: Five-spiced silverfish brings tiny, smelt-like fish battered and ...