Croquembouche, the French pastry popularized in the early 19th century, is suddenly back on the banquet table. Seeking to evoke “a meeting of wise characters coming from a fantasy world,” the ...
Twenty-five years ago, or so, I found the magic. I was paging through a cookbook, the seminal “La Methode,” Jacques Pepin’s sequel to his even more seminal “La Technique.” As I was grazing through the ...
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